March 18, 2013

What is the difference between COSMETICS and COSMECEUTICALS?

the difference between COSMETICS and COSMECEUTICALS


Whenever you hear people talking about cosmetics, they generally refer to makeup. The FDA defines cosmetics as makeup and as products designed "for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions". So soaps, shampoo, deodorant, fragrances, makeup, etc are classed as cosmetics.

Antiperspirants that stop you from sweating, toothpaste that whitens teeth, or anti-bacterial soaps, as well as SPF 30 or 50+ sunscreens, are classed (by definition) as drugs.

Dr. Albert Klingman

I used to think it was Dr. Albert Klingman who first used the term cosmeceutical, however researching it, I found it was actually Raymond Reed, founder of the U.S. Society of cosmetic chemists, who created the concept of "cosmeceutical" in 1961.  The American dermatologist Albert Kligman popularized term “cosmeceutical” in the late 1970s. In 1980, he went on to research Vitamin A and its effects on acne, sun damage and premature aging. This is when Retinol and its use in skin care was first used, which has revolutionized how we treat skin today.


Dr. Alber Klingman defined Cosmeceuticals as skin care products combining cosmetics and pharmaceuticals ingredients. They are more active than basic skin care products which cleanse and cover up imperfections, but not as active as prescription drugs. Cosmeceuticals are regarded as skin care products with active ingredients claiming to have stronger benefits to basic cosmetics but not as strong as prescription drugs. Many cosmeceutical lines are known for delivering visible results without using prescription drugs.


In the ever evolving beauty market, the variations of the cosmeceuticals concept have exploded. Some similar terms I have seen for cosmeceuticals include: nutraceuticals (ingested orally), aquaceuticals (using marine products), floraceuticals (using botanicals), neoceauticals, dermaceuticals, cosmedicals, active cosmetics, nutricosmetics, etc
Regardless of that they call themselves, they all are essentially the same. Skin care products with active ingredients claiming to have stronger benefits to basic cosmetics but not as strong as prescription drugs.

Cosmeceutical products can now be purchased just about everywhere. 

I have seen some impressive formulas in pharmacies, not surprisingly, since cosmeceuticals ARE a marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. These days, cosmeceuticals are not restricted to professional products only. Many department stores, supermarket and pharmacy products contain ingredients that fall under the classification of cosmeceuticals such as retinol, B3, vitamin C, hydroxyl acids, peptides, growth factors, etc. High percentages of active ingredients are no longer the only differentiating factor, nor is the delivery system. Encapsulation technology has been around for decades and used by many big brands. Some pharmaceutical products do have high percentages of active ingredients and department store products have been using active ingredients and advanced delivery systems for a long time.

So what makes a professional, salon only cosmeceutical different to a department store or a pharmacy skin care product? 

the difference between COSMETICS and COSMECEUTICALS

From my experience what makes the difference is the quality of the raw ingredients, the quality of the end product and a professional strength formula that delivers results. Generally, professional only products do have higher percentages of actives in them, but the thing that really sets them apart is the elegant and clever formulations. The higher percentage of actives, the different variety of actives and the way ingredients are combined to deliver a synergistic effect. Professional only products rarely advertise to the mass market, they rely on RESULTS and word-of-mouth, not on marketing. So they HAVE TO PERFORM and deliver DRAMATIC results FAST.

Professional-only products usually have an extensive range that can be tailored to individual skin types, conditions or concerns. They are professional-only for a very good reason. It takes a thoroughly trained, minimum Certificate IV, Diploma or Degree qualified skin therapist to understand the skin in detail, the complex biological mechanisms and how these are affected by the environment and lifestyle. Only a qualified and trained therapist can confidently develop an effective treatment plan using professional-only products that will deliver results.


Some terms used to differentiate cosmetics from cosmeceuticals include: smooths, boosts radiance, clarifies, evens skin tone, improves skin texture, moisturizes, hydrates, protects, conceals, highlights, softens, conditions, lubricates, cleanses, tones, refreshes, clarifies, deodorizes, absorb excess skin oil, removes impurities.


Strengthens skin, strengthens/improves barrier,  reduce redness, reduce appearance of rosacea, anti-irritant, minimise blotchiness, unclogs pores, removes congestion, controls breakouts,  purifying, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, increases skin's elasticity, firming & lifting, prevents signs of ageing, anti-aging, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, regenerates damaged skin, stimulates skin repair, heal, penetrates into the skin to act, fades or reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

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Jana x

March 17, 2013

Dry and Dehydrated Skin? Here is How to Restore Your Skin Fast

Jana Elston
I came back from walking my dog and it's pretty windy out there today! It's lovely and refreshing but it can play real havoc with your skin.

The wind can literally suck the moisture out of your skin. And if it's a sunny day as well, it's easy to get wind burned. Imagine a fan forced oven crisping up the roast. It's a bit like that, the sun heats up and 'toasts' the skin and the wind dries the skin resulting in a skin that feels parched, tight, stinging & sore, and the surface of the skin looks all crackly.

During windy days it's important to protect your skin from over drying because if it's left untreated it can lead to severe dehydration which leads to premature wrinkling, and even skin sensitivities. Dehydration means loss of moisture (water) and it can occur in dry skin as well as oily skin types.

A dried out skin if untreated will slow down the cellular turnover, building up a thicker dead cell layer attempting to protect itself from excessive moisture loss. This can make the skin look dull and sallow and if left untreated can lead to other problems such as blackheads and milia.

If your skin has been dried out by the wind, a moisturizing and hydrating mask can provide instant relief. Prepare your skin first with a gentle milky cleanser designed for sensitive dehydrated skin. After cleansing, patting in a gently hydrating toner is an absolute must. The toner saturates the skin with moisture and often contains soothing plant extracts full of vitamins such as vitamin B5 which helps to re-hydrate and strengthen the skin.

Next, use a gentle, creamy or enzyme-based exfoliant to slough off dry dead cells and smooth the skin. Your mask will be able to moisturise deeper if you exfoliate beforehand.

Apply a mask formulated for a dehydrated or sensitive skin. Leave on for 10-15 minutes ( some you can leave on overnight). This will restore your skin's hydration levels, plumping and softening your skin and reinforcing the skin barrier.
After washing off the mask, apply a hydrating moisturizer. During windy days look for moisturizers with Hyaluronic acid which is a powerful skin hydrating ingredient.

using serum to boost skin results
If your skin is also lipid dry (not enough oil) look for a more emollient cream rich in essential fatty acids. When the skin is lacking lipids, just saturating the skin with moisture is not enough. Your skin is unable to manufacture omegas so if essential acids are depleted it will weaken the skin barrier making it 'porous' allowing it to dry out and can lead to flaky and sensitive skin. A lipid (oil) dry skin needs to restore essential fatty acids. Choose serums and creams rich in omega 3, 6, 9 essential fatty acids that will create a barrier on the surface to help prevent moisture loss in a drying environment. Add a drop of the precious lipid elixir to your moisturizer, mix through before applying to the skin.

Eating more oily fish can help repair the barrier from the inside out. Flax seed oil is also very rich in essential fatty acids which are great for dry skin.

Of course, during sunny and windy days it is especially important to use a sunscreen and opt for sunscreens that have added antioxidants to protect the skin.

So when the wind picks up, your skin does not have to look like a crocodile skin. Adjust your skin care to keep it moisturized, hydrated and protected and if you need advice, have a professional beauty therapist look at your skin. Even better, book yourself in for a lovely, relaxing hydrating facial for a real boost that will make your skin glow!

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Skincare / Beauty Educator, Salon Marketing & Social Media Consultant, Writer, Blogger, Author.

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